19. Strangers share dinner

IslaNavarino (03)After several days of traveling, they see an abandoned hut on the coast. That’s the location they choose. The hut is situated between two huge piles of empty mussel shells. Father and Sisoi pull their canoe very close to it on the beach. It appears they will not be alone tonight.

Sisoi counts the canoes, there are three more. He sees about ten people. He immediately starts to run towards two fighting boys. Soon they’re falling one over another. A ball shoots out. Sisoi runs for the ball, out of breathe but excited. This feels so good after sitting in the canoe for so long.

The other Yahgan families were already preparing fires on the beach. They never met them before. Sisoi and Gaméla’s mother approaches one of the neighbours and asks for a charcoal to start burning their own fire. The women prepare dinner. They gather what they all have collected along the way: fish, water spinach, lean mussels. There is even a small section of meat with a thick rim of fat.

Sisoi’s empty stomach is growling. He looks at his mother. She beckons him and the others as well. The adults leave their chores aside and the children stop playing. By the fire the parents share the food. Sisoi is given a piece of meat. He chews with his mouth half open. A trickle of juice runs down his chin. Gaméla first smells the smoked fish and then quickly eats a couple of bites. Grinningly Sisoi points to the tip of her nose where a piece of fish is sticking. Gaméla wipes it away, but doing so, it leaves a black charcoal stripe. Nobody tells her about it. The four families are enjoying the exuberant meal. Quickly Sisoi empties some mussel shells and throws them behind him on the huge piles of shells already lying there.

Gaméla begins to sing a little and the other children pick up the melody. Their high voices are accompanied by the low and full voices of their parents. Gaméla’s eyes shine. A swinging rhythm is growing. Gaméla gets up, starts dancing and the others follow. After a while they all plump down very pleased. The singing turns into a cozy chat. One of the boys stares at Gaméla across the fire. He cannot take his eyes off of her, wherever she moves.

  • On arrival, Sisoi went playing with the others. What would Gámela have done after they reached the beach?
  • Have you ever camped by yourself?
  • Probably sometimes you play at your friends’ houses. And maybe you will stay there to eat. Generally, your parents will agree about the best time. The Yahgans were accustomed to sharing everything, including food. What is your favorite food?
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  • Or continue reading. Next story: 20. Triple celebration